Japan in Winter with Kids and Grandparents: Why the Japanese Alps Beat Kyoto for Our Family
Japan had been a dream destination for years, and experiencing it in winter with our kids and parents was an adventure we’ll never forget. From the energy of Tokyo to snow-covered mountain villages, traditional ryokans, steaming hot springs, and the famous snow monkeys, this trip brought together so many of the things we love about traveling as a family.
We spent 10 nights exploring Japan, with 4 grandparents, 2 kids (5 and 2 years old) and my sister, traveling by train and bus between Tokyo, Nozawa Onsen, Matsumoto, and Kyoto. We skied in the Japanese Alps, wandered through traditional villages, visited a beautiful Japanese castle, and even experienced being a ninja with our five-year-old!
Although we loved visiting Tokyo and Kyoto on our first trip to Japan, the places that surprised us the most were Nozawa Onsen and Matsumoto in the Nagano region. We loved the peaceful atmosphere, traditional Japanese culture, and opportunity to experience a different side of the country away from its busiest cities.
If we could do this trip again, we’d spend more time exploring the Nagano region or also known as the Japanese alps, and a little less time in Kyoto.
In this guide, we’re sharing our Japan winter itinerary, the places we stayed, how we traveled between destinations, our favorite experiences, and what we’d change if we returned..
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Our Japan Winter Itinerary at a Glance
Our route took us from Tokyo to the mountains of Nagano, then to Kyoto before returning to Tokyo for our flight home.
- Days 1–2: Tokyo — Arriving in Japan, exploring the city, and preparing for our journey into the mountains.
- Days 3–4: Nozawa Onsen — Skiing, wandering through a snowy village, and experiencing traditional public hot springs.
- Day 5: Snow Monkey Park and Matsumoto — Visiting the famous Japanese macaques before continuing to Matsumoto.
- Day 6: Matsumoto — Exploring the castle, historic streets, and enjoying an unforgettable traditional ryokan stay.
- Days 7–9: Kyoto — Discovering Japanese culture and enjoying a fantastic samurai and ninja experience with our kids, with time for other famous attractions.
- Day 10: Tokyo — Returning to Tokyo for our final night.
- Day 11: Departure — Flying home from Tokyo.
We chose this route because it allowed us to experience several different sides of Japan during our first visit: a major city, a traditional ski village, a smaller historic city, and Kyoto’s famous cultural attractions.
Looking back, we would happily have spent more time in the mountains of Nagano. If you’re particularly interested in winter scenery, skiing, hot springs, and traditional Japanese towns, we’d recommend considering extra nights in the Nagano region.
Before You Go: Book Your Train Tickets in Tokyo
One thing we recommend when traveling around Japan is organizing your main train journeys in advance, especially if you’re visiting during the busy Christmas and New Year period.
When we arrived in Tokyo, we went to the JR Ticket Office (Midori no Madoguchi) at Shinjuku Station to buy our long-distance train tickets. This allowed us to reserve our seats and choose departure times that worked best for our itinerary.
We recommend doing this the day you arrive to Tokyo.
The train tickets we booked in advance
- Tokyo → Iiyama. We took the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Iiyama Station, followed by a bus to Nozawa Onsen.
- Matsumoto → Kyoto. We took the JR Limited Express Shinano to Nagoya, then transferred to the Shinkansen Hikari to Kyoto.
- Kyoto → Tokyo. We returned to Tokyo by Shinkansen Hikari for our final night before flying home.
Our tip: Have your itinerary and preferred departure times ready when you visit the ticket office. Staff can help you purchase the appropriate tickets and reserve seats for your journeys. Remember that you’ll need the correct tickets for your Shinkansen and limited express trains; a Suica IC card alone doesn’t cover every long-distance journey.
Other Transportation: Pick up a prepaid Suica/Pasmo card to easily navigate Tokyo’s and kyoto’s public transportation. You can also download digital versions on your Apple Wallet or Apple Watch!
Booking ahead gave us a clearer plan for our travel days, which was particularly helpful when traveling with young children and luggage.
Days 1–2: Tokyo, the easy starting point
We started in Tokyo because it’s simple to fly into and well connected by train to the Nagano mountains. With a toddler, four grandparents and a long flight behind us, we kept these first days slow on purpose.
Where we stayed: Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku
We stayed at Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku, a convenient base for exploring Tokyo and accessing its train network.
Shinjuku is a practical neighborhood for a family trip, with plenty of restaurants, shops, and transport connections nearby. It also worked well for us because we would be leaving Tokyo by train a few days later.
Getting from the airport
Haneda and Narita both have train and airport bus options into Shinjuku. With kids and suitcases, an airport limousine bus is the easiest choice if it stops near your hotel.
What we did in Tokyo
If you have more time, these are good picks with kids:
- Senso-ji and Asakusa: a beautiful first look at a traditional temple, with food stalls nearby
- Meiji Shrine: a quiet forest walk in the middle of the city
- TeamLab Planets: an interactive digital-art space kids can walk through
- Tokyo Skytree: a must-visit landmark for travelers, offering unforgettable experiences and magical views of Tokyo from above.
Our tip: before leaving Tokyo, sort your train tickets and forward your big suitcases ahead. Moving nine people and their luggage into the mountains is a lot easier when you only carry day bags.
Days 3–4: Nozawa Onsen, the place our boys still talk about
IIf there is one place we’d recommend adding to a winter trip to Japan, it’s Nozawa Onsen.
This traditional mountain village was everything we had imagined Japan would look like in winter: snow-covered streets, charming buildings, steaming hot springs, and beautiful mountain scenery.
We loved the atmosphere here. It felt peaceful and authentic, and we could enjoy the village just as much as the skiing.
We traveled with our two young children, and Nozawa Onsen was one of the places where we felt we could slow down and enjoy being together as a family.
How to get from Tokyo to Nozawa Onsen
Getting to Nozawa Onsen from Tokyo is relatively straightforward.
- Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Iiyama Station. The journey takes approximately 1 hour and 40–45 minutes.
- From Iiyama, take the Nozawa Onsen Liner bus to the village. The bus journey takes approximately 25 minutes.
You’ll need a separate Shinkansen ticket; a standard Suica IC card alone won’t cover this journey. Check current train and bus schedules before traveling, particularly during the winter holiday period.
Where we stayed: Miyasakaya
We stayed at Miyasakaya, a small, traditional Japanese guesthouse in the heart of Nozawa Onsen. Its convenient location made it easy to explore the snowy village on foot, with restaurants, shops, public hot springs, and access to the ski slopes nearby.
The guesthouse offers a simple, traditional Japanese atmosphere, with tatami-style rooms and shared bathroom facilities, making it a more homey experience than a typical hotel. We loved being able to wander through the charming streets, experience the village’s onsen culture, and enjoy the incredible winter scenery.
If you’re planning a ski trip to Nozawa Onsen, Miyasakaya is worth considering as a practical base for exploring the village and the surrounding mountains. We spent two nights here, but honestly, we would have loved to stay longer!
Skiing in Nozawa Onsen with kids
Nozawa Onsen is one of Japan’s historic ski villages, and it felt completely different from the resorts we know in the US and Europe.
The skiing was great, with fluffy, powder snow on fun slopes, 36 runs across Mount Kenashi (1,650m), and one lift pass to several interconnected ski zones.
A 1-day lift pass for Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort costs ¥7,300, while a 2-day (recommended) pass costs ¥13,500.
We definitely recommend staying overnight in Nozawa Onsen to soak in the evening après-ski and onsen atmosphere with so many izakayas, shops, and bars (and the free onsens to warm up in, if your accommodation or hotel doesn’t have private on-site hot spring baths).
Experiencing the public onsens
One of our favorite parts of Nozawa Onsen was experiencing its traditional hot spring culture.
The village has 13 historic public baths, known as soto-yu. These baths are part of everyday life in the community and offer a glimpse into a tradition that has been part of Nozawa Onsen for generations.
We truly loved the experience of visiting the public onsen. It was one of those moments that made this trip feel different from a typical ski holiday.
If you visit with children, check the rules and bathing etiquette at each facility in advance, as facilities may have different arrangements for young visitors.
Our recommendation: If you have extra days in your itinerary, we’d spend them here. We could easily have stayed longer to enjoy the village, the skiing, and the hot springs without feeling rushed.
Pack for snow and cold weather: Winter conditions vary throughout Japan. Tokyo and Kyoto can be chilly, while Nozawa Onsen can experience substantial snowfall and much colder temperatures.
Here is the winter gear for kids we recommend: waterproof boots with good traction, warm layers, waterproof outerwear, hats, gloves, and extra clothing for the kids.
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Day 5: Visiting the Snow Monkeys from Nozawa Onsen and Traveling to Matsumoto
Seeing the wild Snow Monkey was the moment the boys had been waiting for. In winter, the monkeys gather around the hot springs, and watching them in the snow is something none of us will forget.
The popularly nicknamed “snow” monkeys are Japanese-native macaques that live in the Jigokudani Yaen-koen park (established in 1964) in northeastern Nagano Prefecture. Millions of tourists have visited it from around the world since.
How we got there from Nozawa Onsen
We took a direct bus from Nozawa Onsen toward Yudanaka, visited the park, then continued to Matsumoto by bus and train. From Yudanaka, the usual route is the Nagaden line to Nagano, then the JR Limited Express Shinano to Matsumoto
The walk to the park
From the trail entrance, it’s about 1.6 km walk, 30–40 minute walk through the forest. In winter the path can be snowy and icy, so wear waterproof boots with good traction.
Build in more time than you think. Between the walk, the monkeys and onward travel, this was a full day for our group.
The forest trail is scenic and peaceful (albeit a bit crowded with fellow hikers at times), and made our visit even more magical under the snow! Entrance tickets can be purchased directly at the entrance gate, up the steps, once you’ve completed the forest walk.
Tickets:
- Adults (18+): ¥800
- Children (6–17): ¥400
- Children under 6: Free
- Tip: Bring cash, as card payment is not always available.
Opening Hours:
- Summer season (April–October): 8:30 am – 5:00 pm
- Winter season (November–March): 9:00 am – 4:00 pm
The monkeys are wild animals. Keep your distance, follow the park rules, and never touch or feed them.
Day 5–6: Matsumoto or Ueda City: A Beautiful and Peaceful Stop in Nagano
Matsumoto was another highlight of our trip, and it’s a place we’d definitely recommend including if you have the time.
After the excitement of Tokyo and the snowy atmosphere of Nozawa Onsen, Matsumoto felt calming and beautiful. We loved the historic streets, the slower pace, and the opportunity to experience another side of Japan.
If you’re visiting the Nagano region, don’t treat Matsumoto as just a quick stop between destinations. We were glad to spend time here, and we would happily have stayed longer.
Where we stayed: Izumiya Zenbe, a traditional Japanese ryokan
One of our favorite experiences in Matsumoto was staying at Izumiya Zenbe, a traditional Japanese ryokan in the Utsukushigahara Onsen area.
If you’re visiting Japan for the first time, we highly recommend experiencing at least one night in a traditional ryokan. For us, this stay was much more than simply finding somewhere to sleep. It was an opportunity to experience Japanese culture through its hospitality, food, and hot spring traditions.
We stayed for two nights and booked a plan that included both breakfast and dinner. Honestly, the whole experience was amazing, and it’s one of the accommodations we’d recommend when visiting the Matsumoto area.
Experience the Japanese onsen culture
One of the things we loved most about Izumiya Zenbe was its hot springs. The ryokan has both public bathing facilities and private onsen, and of course, we wanted to experience both!
We visited the baths on both evenings of our stay, which made our time here feel especially relaxing after days spent exploring Japan in winter.
The ryokan offers a communal indoor bath and private baths, including options with traditional wooden features and an outdoor bathing experience. Private-bath access arrangements can depend on the booking plan, so check the details when reserving your stay.
For us, being able to enjoy the hot springs was a highlight of staying at a traditional ryokan. It was a chance to slow down, warm up after being outside in the cold, and experience a tradition that is such an important part of Japanese culture.
If you’re traveling with children, check the bathing arrangements and rules for your family before booking.
The food was another highlight
We booked our stay with breakfast and dinner included, and we’re so glad we did. The food was a big part of what made this experience so memorable.
Dinner was served as a multi-course Japanese meal featuring seasonal ingredients from the Shinshu region. Rather than receiving just one main dish, the meal included a variety of smaller dishes and different preparations, allowing us to experience a range of Japanese flavors.
This style of dining is often associated with kaiseki cuisine, a Japanese multi-course meal that highlights seasonality, presentation, and a variety of ingredients. The exact dishes can change depending on the season and meal plan.
We loved having the opportunity to experience this style of Japanese dining. It felt like part of the cultural experience itself, rather than simply a meal at the end of the day.
Breakfast was equally special. The ryokan serves a traditional Japanese breakfast with dishes that can include rice, fish, tofu, egg, and small seasonal side dishes.
If you’re used to a Western-style hotel breakfast, this is a lovely opportunity to try something different and start the day with a traditional Japanese meal.
Visit Matsumoto Castle
One of our standout experiences in Matsumoto was visiting Matsumoto Castle at night and seeing the nighttime show.
The castle is famous for its striking black exterior, earning it the nickname Crow Castle. Seeing it illuminated after dark gave us a completely different perspective from visiting a historic landmark during the day.
If you’re visiting in winter, check whether a nighttime event or illumination is scheduled for your dates, as these displays are not necessarily available every night.
We also visited Matsumoto Castle in the morning and booked a guided tour of the interior, which we highly recommend. Having a guide helped us learn more about the castle’s history and understand its importance, making the visit much more meaningful than simply admiring it from the outside. Combined with seeing the castle illuminated at night, it was one of our favorite experiences in Matsumoto.
Explore Nawate-dori and Nakamachi Street
Matsumoto is also a lovely city to explore on foot.
Nawate-dori is known for its small shops, snacks, and frog-themed decorations, while Nakamachi Street has traditional buildings and a historic merchant-town atmosphere.
These are great places to wander without a packed schedule. Browse the shops, enjoy a snack, and take your time exploring the streets.
Why we’d stay longer in Matsumoto
What we loved most about Matsumoto was its atmosphere. It felt peaceful, beautiful, and less rushed than some of Japan’s better-known tourist destinations.
Between the castle, the streets, and our ryokan stay, it was a place where we could slow down and enjoy being there rather than constantly moving on to the next attraction.
If we returned to Japan in winter, we’d make sure to stay longer in this region.
Days 7–9: Kyoto, and the day our son became a ninja
From Matsumoto, we took the JR Limited Express Shinano to Nagoya, then the Shinkansen to Kyoto. Plan on about 3 to 3.5 hours with the connection.
Kyoto has more temples, shrines and historic streets than you could see in a month. But with young kids, we found the best days mixed famous sights with something they could actually do.
Where We Stayed in Kyoto: Hotel Kuu Kyoto
We stayed at Hotel Kuu Kyoto, and one of the things we loved most about its location was that it was directly in front of Higashi Honganji Temple.
This beautiful temple wasn’t one of the famous Kyoto attractions we’d planned our trip around, but we absolutely loved having it right across the street from our hotel. Being able to step outside and see its impressive traditional architecture was a lovely experience, and it gave our stay a peaceful atmosphere despite being so close to the city center.
The hotel is also conveniently located about a seven-minute walk from Kyoto Station, making it a practical base for exploring the city with kids.
Our favorite: the Samurai and Ninja Museum
The highlight of Kyoto for our 5-year-old was the ninja experience at the Samurai and Ninja Museum.
It was truly amazing to see our child get involved in the experience. Instead of simply looking at historic objects, we could learn about samurai and ninja culture in a way that was interactive and fun for the whole family.
If you’re visiting Kyoto with children, we’d definitely recommend looking into this experience. Check the current activities, age requirements, and booking options before your trip.
For us, this was one of the most memorable things we did in Kyoto.
Kyoto’s famous sights
If you want a few classics, these are the best known:
- Fushimi Inari Taisha: thousands of red-orange torii gates winding up the mountain
- Kiyomizu-dera: a historic temple with a huge wooden terrace and city views
- Gion: traditional streets and wooden buildings
- Arashiyama: An area known for its bamboo grove, temples, and riverside scenery.
These places are well known for a reason, but our experience also reminded us that the most popular attractions aren’t necessarily the ones every family will enjoy the most.
Nara and the Arashiyama bamboo grove: would we go again?
We added Nara and the Arashiyama bamboo grove because it was our first time in Japan and they’re on every list. Nara is known for its free-roaming deer and Todai-ji Temple. Arashiyama is famous for its tall bamboo paths.
Honestly, they weren’t what stood out for us. Looking back, these were the places we would have been more likely to skip if we’d known what to expect. We’d rather have spent that extra time in the Nagano region, where we felt especially connected to the winter landscape and the slower pace of life.
Every family is different. If feeding the deer or walking the bamboo grove is high on your list, go. Just don’t feel you have to see every famous place to have a great trip.
Would we spend three nights in Kyoto again?
Kyoto is a wonderful city, and we’re glad we visited it on our first trip to Japan.
However, if we were planning the same itinerary again, we’d probably spend only two days here and use the extra time to explore more of the Nagano region.
We especially loved Nozawa Onsen and Matsumoto, and we’d rather have more time to enjoy those places than squeeze in every famous attraction.
Day 10: Returning to Tokyo
On January 1, we returned to Tokyo for our final night before flying home the next day.
We took the Shinkansen from Kyoto to Tokyo, a journey that typically takes around 2 hours and 15 minutes to 2 hours and 30 minutes on a fast service.
We stayed at Shinjuku Prince Hotel, which gave us another night in the Shinjuku area before departure.
If you’re traveling during the New Year period, check transport schedules and attraction opening hours in advance. Some businesses and attractions operate differently during the holiday.
We recommend keeping your final evening simple, with time for a relaxed meal, a little shopping, and getting everything ready for the flight home.
Day 11: Flying Home
Our Japan winter adventure came to an end on January 2.
When choosing your final hotel, consider which airport you’re flying from and how long the transfer will take. Haneda and Narita are in different directions, so check your route and leave enough time for the journey, especially with children and luggage.
Is Japan in Winter Worth Visiting with Kids?
Absolutely. Japan in winter gave us the opportunity to combine outdoor adventures, cultural experiences, and beautiful places in one trip.
Tokyo was a convenient and exciting starting point, and we’re glad we visited Kyoto on our first trip to Japan. But Nozawa Onsen and Matsumoto were the places that really stole our hearts.
We loved the snowy streets of Nozawa Onsen, the experience of visiting the public hot springs, the peaceful atmosphere of Matsumoto, and the chance to stay in a traditional ryokan.
If we could change anything about our itinerary, we’d spend more time in the Nagano region and less time trying to fit in every popular attraction around Kyoto.
Our biggest advice is to plan a route that reflects your family’s interests. If you love mountains, snow, skiing, traditional Japanese culture, and quieter destinations, don’t overlook the places beyond Japan’s biggest cities.
Japan had been a dream destination for so long, and this trip gave us memories we’ll treasure for years. We would love to return and spend more time exploring the mountains and smaller towns.
If you’re planning a winter adventure in Japan with kids, we hope our itinerary helps you plan your own trip!
